Creaming composition



CREAMING COMPOSITION William S. Arnold, Arlington Heights, 111., assignor to The Gillette Company, a corporation of Delaware No Drawing. Application April 27, 1951, Serial No. 223,455

15 Claims. (Cl. 167-811 My invention concerns a new opacifier or creaming agent for use in aqueous cosmetic preparations, particularly such preparations which are alkaline in reaction. Since the composition is considered of greatest utility as employed in hair Waving solutions, especially solutions of the type capable of the impartation of a cold wave, it will be specifically described in that connection.

In U. S. Patent 2,464,281 there is described a hair waving solution in which the opacifier, as included in the solution, consists of an aqueous mixture of fully polymerized acrylic acid copolymers and an aryloxy poly alkaline ether sulfonate. While such mixture initially provides a pleasing creamed efiect, the resin component is prone to settle out and is extremely diificult to redisperse. Once separation has started, the lotion assumes a most unsightly appearance. Another disadvantage of this prior opacifier resides in the fact that in the bottling of the hair waving lotion the resin tends to plug the capillaries of the filling machine, greatly complicating the filling operation.

My invention aims to provide a creaming agent or opacifier which is not subject to either of the indicated faults. It further aims to provide an opacifier which is fully compatible with components normally found in cold wave lotions.

Generally described, the composition herein comprises a mineral oil, a sulfonated vegetable oil and an ester of an aliphatic dior tri-hydroxy alcohol, as ethylene glycol, propylene alcohol, glycerol, etc., and a high molecular fatty aliphatic acid, e. g., lauric, stean'c, oleic, palmitic and the like. Additionally, the composition generally comprises lanolin or a lanolin derivative such as lanogene, which is described as a mixture of the more volatile constituents of lanolin.

When the composition is to be included in a hair waving preparation, the ester component, which functions as an emulsifier with respect to the mineral oil, is most preferably diglycol oleate. I have found that this material is remarkably effective in the emulsification of mineral oil in aqueous alkaline solutions containing a high proportion of electrolytes, and this is generally true of hair waving solutions. The lanolin, when included, also performs an emulsifying function, but acts primarily as a skin or hair conditioner, as the case may be. The sulfonated vegetable oil serves as an emulsion stabilizer. I have found sulfonated castor oil to be quite effective, and consequently I normally use it as the sulfonated vegetable oil component.

The relative proportions of the several materials making up my composition may vary within the limits below:

It is not necessary that the sulfonated vegetable oil be completely sulfonated. Thus, I have found that sulfo- 233mm Patented Mar. 13, 1956 Percent Mineral oil Saybolt viscosity) 59-75 Sulfonated castor oil (Tri-ol) 2.5-15 Lanolin 0-25 Diglycol oleate 10-26 For hair waving solutions the concentrations considered optimal are:

Percent Mineral oil (125/ 135 Saybolt viscosity) 67.0 Sulfonated castor oil (Tri-ol) 6.0 Lanolin 10.0 Diglycol oleate 17.0

Using a light mineral oil, e. g., one having a Saybolt viscosity at 100 F. of from 50 to 60 seconds, the following limits are generally best observed:

Percent Mineral oil 7077.5 sulfonated vegetable oil 2.5-10 Ester emulsifier 9-13 Lanogene 0-30 As indicated, lanogene rather than lanolin is preferred for employment with a light mineral oil.

The most preferred light mineral oil composition for use in hair waving solutions combines 74% of the light oil, 5% sulfonated castor oil, 11% diglycol oleate (containing about 2-5% of oleic acid soap), and 10% lanogene.

Waving lotions of the type to which I consider my invention particularly applicable comprise as their active component a compound, usually referred to as a reducing agent, which acts to convert the disulfide or cystine bonds of thehair keratin to sulfhydryl groups. This conversion, which is ordinarily effected with the hair wound on curlers 'or otherwise fixed in a curled condition, is marked by plasticization of the hair with consequent detensioning thereof, so that upon subsequent rebuilding of the disulfide linkages with the hair still in a wound condition, the hair takes a positive curled set. The rebuilding of the linkages is brought about either by natural oxidative processes alone or, more usually, through the use of so-called neutralizer solutions, which in general are solutions of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide,

potassium bromate, alkaline perborate and the like.

Although the invention is applicable to hair waving solutions generally, its effects are perhaps most pronounced as to alkaline hair waving solutions in which the,

hair-reducing agent is a thiol, i. e'., an organic compound containing a sulfhydryl or mercaptan group. Perhaps the most commonly used thiol is ammonium thioglycolate.

The corresponding sodium salt of thioglycolic acid can it highly advantageous to employ as the wetting agent in' the lotion the material customarily sold under the name M'aypon C. such material is' said to be derived from :he. treatment .of scrap leather. Chemically, it -is-described as hydrolyzed protein condensed with fatty acid. It is of the general class of materials known as lamepons, which are understood to have be'en developedfin' G'er= many prior to the late war. The lam'epons are described in considerable detail 1 in' Schwartz P'erry Surface"Activ'e Agents, Interscience Publishing Company, Inc; New

York.

My researches-indicatethat the Maypon; in' addition to exercising its primary function; acts to furtherstabilize the emulsified oil c'o'mponentofmy compositionas con tained' in the' lotion. Surprisingly, while it is high foaming ofitself, it foams but little when used"'"in. conjunction with my'crearning composition. p

Employing my novel 'creaming agent 'iu combination wit H'fMayp0n in a thiol lotion, I have. found it advan tageous -to-observethe limits below...

3. A composition adapted for use as a creaming agent in-aqueeusalkaline cosmetic preparations; which includesa mineral oil having a Saybolt viscosity at 100 F. of from about 50 to about 60 seconds, diglycol oleate, upto 30% of a material comprising a mixture of the more volatile components of lanolin, and sulfonated castor oil, said composition in the respcctof' the mineral oil, sul- .fonated castor oiland..diglycoLoleatev conforming to the limits below:

Percent Alak'aline thiol" '4 -'10 Creaming agent 2'- 5 l Water 83 93 In such alotion, any separation whioh may occur takes" place very slowly. Fornoticeable separation a period of weeks is required; forcomplete separationa period" of months. Even with pronounced separation,- the ap peara-nceot the lotion: .is. not.:un sightlyg since; unlilceethe situation. with;- the; previously. employed. resin,. thes: oi-l moves to the top of the;bottle;- that=is;.there*is no settling? 01112;.0f1 solid matter. Even a lotion in which complete separation has .occurred..can be. restoredtoits: original.

conditiongthroughlight. shaking of the bottle; indeed,- the;

carrying of the -bottle. home .from the drugstore 'or other" point a'ofxpurchaselprovides .more. than suflicient-ag-itation to completely re-disperse the. oil.

In making up the creaming agent,v no special precau; tionsneedbe observedexcept that.it-is advisableto add the lanolin component,..if. such component is included, last, becauseifadded-before the oil itmay tend.to.:-stayr at thebottom of'th'e mixing vessel. Whenusingthe preferred'heavier oil, it is further recommended that the oil be heated and. that the-lanolin be; incorporated -.with .agi; tationt Having thus -fully described my, invention, what- I. claimisz.

1., A composition. adapted for. use: as. a: ereamingyagent. in aqueousalkalinecosinetiopreparations, whichinclud'es.

a mineral-.oilhaving a .Saybolt viscosity. at 1.00; F; of. from .about 5.0-1'50Jseconds; arr-ester of .a= fatty :acid having a .molecular weightat least. as; high as.- lauric. acid and,- an alcoholfromthe class consisting: of di-andgtri -hydroxy; alcohols, ,a .sulfonated .vegetable. :oil and up to about? 3 0 %I-- of lanolin, .,said. composition .-in.the.-respect of;-tl' r e-;-!nineral oil,;. sulfon'ated :vegetable: oil, and. ester. conforming zatovther limits. below;

I Percent Mineral oil 59:80.. Sulfonated vegetableaoil 2:55-15.

Ester... 9:-'26 f 2. A. compositionadapted foruse .-as :acreamingagent in aque0us:alkaline cosmetic preparations, whichdncludcs: a mineralroilhaving a. Saybolt viscosity, at 10.0. E7. of from about 1-25. to. about. 135.. seconds, -diglycol.oleate=,-.

sulfonated castor oil and: up,v to abont;25%-. anhydrous:

lanolin,, said; composition: inthe. respect of the minerab oil, -sulfonatcdqcastora oil and diglycol oleate. con'formii'lg to thezlimitsa-below:

Percent" Minerah'oil "5,9 Sulfonated-castoroil' "2.5'--l5.' Diglyc'ol oleate; 10i+26f Percent- Mineral oil 70 77.5 Sulfonatedcastor oil 2 .-510 Diglycol oleate 9-13 4. A composition adapted for use. asa crearning agent in aqueous alkaline cosmetic preparations, which includes about 67% of a mineral oil having a Saybolt viscosity at F. of from about to about seconds, about 6%:sulfonated castor oil, about 10%- anhydrous-lanolin and ab'out l7% diglycol-oleate. V

5. A' composi-tion adapted for use as-acreaming-'-age1'rtin aqueous alkaline;cosmetic preparations; which ineludes-- alcohols,- a sulfonated vegetable oil and up to :about 3.0%

of lanolin,.saidcompositionin the respectof the mineral oil; sulfOnatedWegetable oil, and ester-conforming .to' the. limits below':

Percent Min'eraloil "a 59-8'0 Sulfonated'vegetable oil 2 '.5 l5 Ester 9 26 7. A thiol hair waving solution rendered opaque; by; the, inclusion, therein of a compositioncomprising-z a mineralloihhaving asayboltviscosityat 100 F.- ofifrom about. 125.. to. about 135. seconds, diglycol oleate,- sulfonatedgcastorioil and up toabout 25% anhydrouswlanoe lin, said ,-comp .osition in therespect of the mineraltoil; sulfonated} castor oil and diglycol oleate-conforming; to; the.,lirnits below:

Percent-1 Mineral oil 595-15; Sulfonated .castor :oil 2.5,. 15 Diglycol.oleate 10a26- 8; A thiol h-airwaving-solution rendered opaque'by the inclusion therein of" a composition comprisinga mineral oil lfa'vin'g a' Sayboltvis'cosityat 1'O0F."of fi'omab'out.

SO-to'about: 60' seconds, diglycol-oleate; upv to 30% 'of' a material comprising-' a' mixture of--themore" volatile components -of'1anolin, and sulfonated castor; oil; said composition in th'e-re'spectof themi'neral' oil; sulfon'ate'd castor" oil anddiglycol oleate conforming to the limits belo'w'r Percent Mineral 'oil. "70 7725" Sulfonated castor oil 22540, Diglycol =o1'e'ate; 9-13 9. A thiol hair waving solution rendered opaque by the inclu'sion therein of a composition comprising about 67 of T a mineral -oil having a Saybolt viscosity at 100*? F. fo'f' frorn about- 125 to'abouti'135 "seconds, about 6%" sulfonated-castonoil, about"10% anhydrous lanolinand" about 17 diglycol oleate.

10. An, alkaline. hair. waving, solution-rendered!opaque by the. inclusion. therein. of a composition:comprising.

59-80% of a mineral oil, 25-15% of a sulfonated vegetable oil and from 926% of an ester of a fatty acid having a molecular weight at least as high as lauric acid and an alcohol from the class consisting of diand trihydroxy alcohols, said solution additionally containing, as a wetting agent and as an emulsion stabilizer, from 1-2% of a substance comprising hydrolyzed protein condensed with fatty acids.

11. An alkaline hair waving solution conforming to claim 10 which includes up to about 30% of lanolin.

12. A thiol hair waving solution incorporating an agent comprising hydrolyzed protein condensed with fatty acids, and rendered opaque by the inclusion therein of a composition comprising from 59-80% of a mineral oil having a Saybolt viscosity at 100 F. of from about 50-150 seconds, from 926% of an ester of a fatty acid having a molecular weight at least as high as lauric acid and an alcohol'from the class consisting of diand tri hydroxy alcohols, from 25-15% of a sulfonated vegetable oil and up to about 30% of lanolin, said agent assisting in the wetting of the hair with the waving solution and further serving as a stabilizer with respect to the mineral oil component.

13. A thiol hair waving solution incorporating an agent comprising hydrolyzed protein condensed with fatty acids, and rendered opaque by the inclusion therein of a composition comprising from 5975% of a mineral oil having a Saybolt viscosity at 100 F. of from about 125 to about 135 seconds, from 10-26% of diglycol oleate, from 25-15% of sulfonated castor oil and up to about 25% anhydrous lanolin, said agent assisting in the wetting of the hair with the waving solution and further serving as a stabilizer with respect to the mineral oil component.

14. A thiol hair waving solution incorporating an agent comprising hydrolyzed protein condensed with fatty acids, and rendered opaque by the inclusion therein of a composition comprising from 70-77.5% of a mineral oil having a Saybolt viscosity at 100 F. of from about to seconds, from 913% of dyglycol oleate, up to 30% of a material consisting of a mixture of the more volatile components of lanolin, and from 2.5-10% of sulfonated castor oil,. said agent assisting in the wetting of the hair with the Waving solution and further serving as a stabilizer with respect to the mineral oil component.

15. A thiol hair Waving solution according to claim 9 which includes an agent comprising hydrolyzed protein condensed with fatty acids, said agent assisting in the wetting of the hair with the waving solution and further serving as a stabilizer with respect to the mineral oil component.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,513,918 McQuillan Nov. 4, 1924 1,581,577 Ingrassia Apr. 20, 1926 2,151,241 Sommer Mar. 21, 1939 2,154,924 Wilson Apr. 18, 1939 2,305,356 Luckenbach Dec. 15, 1942 2,309,722 Wilkes Feb. 2, 1943 2,464,280 Reed Mar. 15, 1949 2,464,281 Peterson Mar. 15, 1949 2,479,382 Mace Aug. 16, 1949 FOREIGN PATENTS 550,746 Great Britain Jan. 21, 1943 472,745 Great Britain Sept. 29, 1937 OTHER REFERENCES Chemicals by Glyco, Glyco Products Co., Brooklyn, New York, 1948, Diglycol Oleate 8., pp. 16 to 29 and p. 75.

Powers: Bulletin of National Formulary Committee," vol. X, Numbers 8-9, August-Sept. 1942, pp. 208 and 213.

Van Antwerpen: Surface Active Agents, Ind. and Eng. Chem., Jan. 1943, pp. 126 to 130. 

1. A COMPOSITION ADAPTED FOR USE AS A CREAMING AGENT IN AQUEOUS ALKALINE COSMETIC PREPARATIONS, WHICH INCLUDES A MINERAL OIL HAVING A SAYBOLT VISCOSITY AT 100* F. OF FROM ABOUT 50-150 SECONDS, AN ESTER OF A FATTY ACID HAVING A MOLECULAR WEIGHT AT LEAST AS HIGH AS LAURIC ACID AND AN ALCOHOL FROM THE CLASS CONSISTING OF DI- AND TRI-HYDROXY ALCOHOLS, A SULFONATED VEGEATABLE OIL AND UP TO ABOUT 30% OF LANOLINE, SAID COMPOSITION IN THE RESPECT OF THE MINERAL OIL, SULFONATED VEGETABLE OIL, AND ESTER CONFORMING TO THE LIMITS BELOW: 